I had this Canon F1 with great lenses, and Canon does not make a 55mm 1.2 anymore, so I started to look for a FD EOS mount adaptor, but all available make you lose 1 f-stop and infinity focus. So I though to my self, this has to work with the EOS if was a bit closer to the Body, so I tock the attachment ring and the aperture ring and made a EOS mount, the hard part was to find the right distance, but it worked! with this mod you can make any FD into EOS with no losses (but control over aperture), actuly, i dont think you will be able to put together the FD rings back…. very complicated… :)
Update in response to Arthur:
Hi Arthur, I used a mount from a broken 18-55 kit lens, i removed the extra EF-S part from it. than i enlarged the whole to fit the larger back element.
To mod the FD lens you will have to remove the mount ring and the aperture ring and whatever else is hanging(dont mess with the focus system.)
Then lock the aperture wide open, and use a lot!! hot glue to fix it on the mount(good becouse if you mistake you can re-do it), use Black take to make sure there are no light leaks.
And thats it
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Featured in a www.diyphotography.net/readers-projects-the-cd-spindle-ri…, it’s a great site for learning, I really recommend!
If you like this and make an improved version, please let me know so I can get some new ideas!
Thanks Kidneri for the idea on using a CD spindle case for the ring, and many other people on Flickr who did a similar project and posted the instructions.
With this piece of cardboard, plastic, tape and glue, I can take 1:1 photos from 30cm of the subject at 1/200s, f/22, ISO 100 in complete darkness, pretty good!
It makes a wrap around light with a soft shadow, much better than any diffuser I’ve tried for macro. Take a look at the photos I’ve taken with this ringflash.
Well, it’s not perfect… there’s a light loss, so the flash may fire at high power and I will need to wait it to recharge, but not much. It’s also too small for portraits, only indicated for macro.
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Se você gostar dessa gambiarra e fizer algo melhor, por favor me avise assim posso pegar algumas novas idéias!
Obrigado Kidneri pela idéia de usar um tubo de mídias de CD para o anel, e muitas outras pessoas no Flickr que fizeram um projeto semelhante e colocaram instruções.
Com papelão, plástico, fita e cola, eu consigo tirar fotos 1:1 à 30cm do alvo em 1/200s, f/22, ISO 100 em completa escuridão, muito bom!
Ele cria uma luz em volta do objeto com uma sombra suave, muito melhor que qualquer difusor que tentei para macro. Veja as fotos que tirei com esse ringflash.
Bom, não é perfeito… há uma perda de luz, então o flash pode disparar em alta potência e demorar um pouco para recarregar, mas não muito. Também é pequeno demais para retratos, só indicado para macro mesmo.
More and more owners of Canon PowerShot cameras have found CHDK, which is a firmware hack that allows users to add a lot of additional capabilities to their cameras. The capabilities include faster and slower shutter speeds, addition of RAW format, increased aperture range, better histograms, battery monitors, and user control scripts. I’m not going to discuss how to install CHDK or any scripts here. The links in these instructions (and the discussions in the Canon PowerShot S5 IS Group provide lots on good information on how to do that.)
UPDATE: (31 August 2008) The newer Juciphox Build of CHDK allows for the remote to work without additional scripts. In my initial testing, this version is much simpler to use than the older script-based technique.
One of the scripts available to CHDK users adds the capability to remotely trip the shutter using the camera’s USB port. Before you read any further, please note that while most things that you can do with CHDK cannot harm your camera, applying too much power to the USB port on your camera can cause major damage that Canon will charge you an enormous amount of money to repair. This is a fairly easy hack if you own a multimeter and a soldering iron, but if the thought of wiring a homemade device into your beautiful little camera and risking the possibility of causing it go KABLOOEY makes you feel uneasy, then this may not be the project for you. IF YOU FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS, YOU DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK.
There are some great webpages that explain the process of building and using a USB remote trigger, including the script itself. Since a remote trigger is great for long exposure and macro photography, I decided to build it for myself. I followed the instructions, but it didn’t work. I could trip the shutter by running the script and connecting the camera to a laptop via the USB cable, but not when my trigger was connected. I tested and retested it, but nothing would make it work. Finally, I found this page that indicated that unlike the S2 IS and S3 IS, the S5 needs at least 3.7V to trigger instead of the 3V that would trigger the earlier cameras. So, I rebuilt the remote to use 4.5V (using a 3V CR2032 watch battery and a 1.5V “Type N” alkyline battery) , and it immediately worked like a charm.
I bought all of the components at Radio Shack (and the part numbers listed below are their part numbers, this isn’t an add for them, they are just the only place in my small town that sells this type of stuff). The case is a 270-1801 Project Enclosure ($2.29), which is 3x2x1 inches (7.5x5x2.5 cm). The momentary push button switch is part number 275-646 ($2.49). It is mounted in the case with a 1/2 inch hole. I also routed out a small hole with a Dremmel tool on a corner opposite the switch so that the USB cable could exit the case once the lid is screwed back on.
I cut a spare USB extension cable with “Type A” ends (i.e., with a plug on one end and a receptacle on the other). I stripped back part of the cable on the receptacle end and found the wires corresponding to pins 1 and 4 using a multimeter.
To generate enough power in such a small enclosure, I ended up using both a 3V CR2032 battery and a 1.5V “N” alkaline battery. The battery holders for these are part numbers 270-0009 for the CR2032 ($0.99), and 270-405A for the N battery ($0.99). I soldered the black wire from the N battery holder to the “+” connector post on the CR2032 holder. I then soldered the red wire from the N battery holder to one post of the switch. I then soldered another length of red wire to the other post of the switch, and a length of black wire to the “-” post of the CR2032 holder.
I attached all of the battery holders to the inside of the case using double-sided tape.
FInally, I soldered the red wire from the switch and the black wire from the CR2032 enclosure to the wires corresponding to pins 1 and 4 respectively on the USB receptacle cable that I cut earlier. I then taped up these soldered connections with electrical tape and packed them into the case as neatly as I could. After screwing the cover back on, I tested the switch with a multimeter to verify that pins 1 and 4 of the USB receptacle showed approximately 4.5V (but under no circumstances more than 5V !) when the button was depressed.
Once this was done, I connected it to my camera with a Type A to Mini-B USB cable, turned on the camera, started the remote shutter CHDK script, and my new remote worked perfectly!
I chose to use a Type A receptacle with a short cable on my remote. Some may prefer wiring a Mini-B type plug directly, but this method provides me with more flexibility. The short cord makes it easier to carry and store, and allows me to connect a short USB cable (which I carry in my bag), or a long one (which I don’t) depending on what I’m going to do. It’s also a lot easier to test the contraption during construction with the larger end than it would have been with the Mini-B.
I built this remote for about $6.75 (plus about $8 for the batteries!). I was also able to use a USB cable that I already had. Local businesses were all really proud of their USB cables, but they can be purchased pretty inexpensively on the web.
Finally, if you don’t want to use an “N” battery, any 1.5V battery will work. AA or AAA batteries would work fine, but I didn’t have room in my case to use them.
UPDATE (15 September 2008): I have now built a second trigger with a larger case that uses three AAA batteries and that has a larger button for use by people with limited manual dexterity.
As most of you are now aware, the new Pocketwizard Flex tt5 has comms problems due to the RF noise coming from the Canon 580ex and MK II flashes. To solve the problem, PW started to give away (Free of charge) the new AC5 Soft Shield, however this is only valid for US residentes only. Well, since I dont live in the USA, I started to do my homework and realised that copper actually blocks a big porcentage of the RF noise coming from the flash. So I headed to the local Art Shop (Riot art shop located at Westfieds in Burwood) and got a copper/aluminum sheet for $30 dollars. cut a few pieces and taped it to the flash and BINGO! problem solved. Without this DIY soft shield, I was lucky to get 15 meters distance from the flash, with the soft shield, I stopped testing at around 150mts away (I guess that is plenty of distance for what I want)
This is not a pretty solution, but at least makes me happy, Im now planning to make a sock for it. (will post photos once done) You can see the test Here
Working table with all the gear needed to assemble the Black Straws Snoot Grid.
- Black duct tape
- Cereal Box (Any type or any kind)
- Hand full of Black Straws
- Portable flash to try it out later
Here are the direct links to the articles DIY: Black Straws Snoot Grid (Part 1), DIY: Black Straws Snoot Grid (Part 2) and you can also make a colored one DIY: Black Straws Snoot Grid (Colored) of the Lighting Mods articles.